
Twelve RHS-cited native UK plants that feed British wildlife. Trees, shrubs, perennials and bulbs for a garden the local birds and bees can actually use.
Every UK garden plant has a different relationship with the wildlife around it. A lavender grows here, and bees feed on it, but the lavender does not need British insects to make seeds. A hawthorn is different. The hawthorn evolved alongside the moths whose caterpillars eat its leaves, the birds that nest in its branches, the small mammals that live in its hedge. Pull a hawthorn out and you have not just lost a plant; you have lost the small ecosystem that depends on it.
That is the point of native plants. Not because they are inherently better than every garden plant from anywhere else, but because the local wildlife has co-evolved with them, sometimes for thousands of years. The list below is the twelve native UK plants we lean on most when we design a wildlife-friendly garden in South East London, drawn from the RHS wildlife-friendly garden plants guide. No chemicals, ever.
The RHS gives a precise definition that is worth knowing before you plant: "A native plant is one that originated or arrived naturally in a particular place without human involvement. In the British Isles, native plants are those that were here during the last ice age or have arrived unaided since." It is a tighter category than people imagine. A lavender brought over by the Romans is not native. A snowdrop introduced in the 16th century is not native. Hawthorn, oak, holly, foxglove, primrose are.
Why does that matter? Because the UK's invertebrate populations have specific co-evolved relationships with their native plants that they do not have with garden imports. Some bees only feed on certain native plants. Some moth caterpillars only eat the leaves of one or two native species. Plant a native, and you are feeding a small set of British insects that nothing else in the garden can quite replace.
That said, the RHS research is balanced. A mix of native and well-chosen non-native plants supports the broadest wildlife community. Our advice across SE London is to lean native, especially for trees, shrubs and the backbone of the garden, then use non-natives such as lavender, salvia and sedum to extend the flowering season for the broader pollinator mix.
Britain has lost a staggering amount of habitat to development, farming and chemicals over the last fifty years. Gardens now make up nearly a quarter of all green space in our cities. That is an extraordinary opportunity if every garden adds even a few native plants. A single hawthorn in a Peckham terrace garden is genuinely useful. A native hedge along a Forest Hill back boundary is a small piece of countryside in the middle of South East London.
The other reason is practical. Native plants are by definition adapted to the British climate, the British soils and the British insect pressures. They tend to be tough, low-maintenance and disease-resistant in a way that imports from California or the Mediterranean are not. A native plant in a SE London garden is often the easiest plant in the bed.
We never use chemicals on any garden we work on, and the native species we choose almost never need them. That combination, native plants and no chemicals, is what makes a garden actually feed the local wildlife rather than just look pretty.

Most gardens get more out of going native-first than going native-only. We design wildlife gardens around a native backbone of trees, shrubs and perennials, layered with the chosen non-natives that extend the pollinator season. Native planting is part of our wildlife garden design service, priced bespoke to your garden, never a fixed package, because what works depends on your light, soil and existing structure.
The list below covers all the layers a wildlife garden needs: trees and shrubs that support nesting birds and a long list of moth caterpillars, perennials and bulbs that feed pollinators across the year, and a few ground-cover and climbing natives that fill gaps.
None of these need anything unusual to thrive on the heavy London clay we plant into every day. All are chemical-free in our gardens, and most are easy enough that a first-time gardener can grow them.
Where the RHS specifically calls a native out for its wildlife value, we have said so.
Trees and shrubs first, then perennials and bulbs. Pick a backbone from the woody plants and build a flowering layer around it.
The single most important native plant for a UK wildlife garden. The RHS native hedging guide calls it out as a key native, and the wildlife-friendly garden plants page highlights hawthorn for the way it "supports many species of birds that use the hedges as nesting sites". White May blossom feeds bees and hoverflies, autumn berries feed blackbirds and thrushes, the leaves support hundreds of moth caterpillars. A native hedge of hawthorn alone is one of the richest things you can plant.
The native UK evergreen. Provides year-round nesting cover, dense thorny shelter for small birds, and red berries on female plants from autumn through winter. RHS-listed as a native hedging shrub. Tolerates shade. Plant one male and one female if you want berries; one male can pollinate several females.
The native climbing honeysuckle. The RHS wildlife guide notes that its "evening fragrance attracts moths which in turn feed birds and bats". A genuinely under-used plant. Grow it through a hawthorn or up a north-facing wall; it tolerates shade and damp clay. Cream-yellow flowers June to August, red berries for the birds in autumn.
The native UK biennial that has been working pollinators harder than any other for centuries. Tall purple-pink spires in June, designed by evolution for the long-tongued bumblebees that pollinate them. Self-seeds reliably. Likes light shade and damp soil, which is exactly what most SE London gardens offer.
The first proper flowers of the British spring. Both natives to GB and Ireland, both RHS-listed as shade perennials. Primrose flowers from February in mild years, feeding the early queen bumblebees; cowslip follows in April and May. Naturalise them through a meadow corner or under shrubs and they spread slowly into colonies.
The native ground-cover edible. Small white flowers from spring through summer, tiny intensely flavoured strawberries through summer and autumn. Spreads quietly into a low mat. RHS-listed as a wildlife-friendly groundcover. Bees and hoverflies on the flowers, birds and small mammals on the fruit.
The native woodland bulb. White star-shaped flowers carpet British woodlands in March and April; in a garden they do the same under deciduous trees and shrubs. Disappears completely by summer, leaving room for everything else. RHS-listed as native to GB and Ireland.
One of the great native wildflowers for an open border. Pale lilac pincushion flowers from June into autumn. The RHS specialist bee list highlights field scabious as essential for the small and large scabious mining bees that depend on it. Sunny, dry-ish corners; copes with clay if drainage is reasonable.
Native low-growing legume with bright yellow pea-like flowers, often called "eggs and bacon" for the reddish buds. Food plant of the common blue butterfly and a long list of bees. Brilliant for the front of a sunny border or scattered through a small meadow patch. Fixes nitrogen into the soil as a bonus.
The other native pillar of a wildflower border. Tall wiry stems with deep purple thistle-like flowerheads; one of the best nectar plants in the British flora. Reliable on clay, holds its own against grass, and the late seedheads feed goldfinches into autumn.
The native UK bulbs. Snowdrops are the first flowers of the year and feed the earliest queen bumblebees out of hibernation. Wild daffodils (Wordsworth's "host of golden daffodils") are smaller and gentler than the modern showy hybrids and naturalise better in a quiet corner. Both RHS-listed natives.
The native climber and the most under-loved wildlife plant in Britain. Mature ivy flowers in September and October when little else does, feeding the specialist ivy bee (Colletes hederae) and the last bumblebee queens before hibernation. Berries in winter feed blackbirds, blackcaps and woodpigeons. Leave a patch of mature ivy to flower on a wall or tree and the difference is dramatic.
Native trees and shrubs (hawthorn, holly, honeysuckle) go in best in autumn (October to November) for evergreens, or as bare-root plants between November and March for hawthorn. Bare-root is cheaper per metre and establishes more strongly than pot-grown.
Native perennials (foxglove, primrose, cowslip, field scabious, knapweed, bird's-foot trefoil) go in best in autumn or early spring. Buy as plug plants from a wildflower nursery, or grow from seed sown the previous autumn.
Native bulbs (snowdrops, wild daffodils, wood anemone) are best planted "in the green", which means as growing plants in late spring just after flowering rather than as dry bulbs in autumn. Snowdrops in particular sulk for years from dry bulbs but settle straight away from in-the-green plants.
Native planting is a slow burn in a way that bedding plants are not. Year one is mostly green; the perennials settle, the woody plants put down roots, and only a few of the flowers really get going. Year two is when the foxgloves you let self-seed flower properly, the wood anemones spread, and the hawthorn starts to look like an actual hedge.
Year three is when the wildlife notices. We have planted a small native border in Brockley and watched ivy bees turn up in September three years later, having found a flowering ivy that had not been there before. The native planting attracts the native specialists; the specialists do not turn up the first summer.
This is also where the chemical-free rule matters most. A sprayed garden of native plants supports almost nothing. A patient, chemical-free, native-led garden gets richer every year.
You absolutely can do this yourself, and any garden adding a few natives is a garden moving in the right direction. The harder bits are the structural plants (which native tree or shrub fits your garden, how to lay a native hedge, how to plant wildflowers into existing grass) and getting the layering right so the garden reads as designed rather than overgrown.
That is what we design. Native and wildlife-friendly planting plans are part of our wildlife garden design service, priced bespoke to your garden, because a SE London terrace garden and a Forest Hill back garden need different native lists. Same named gardener every visit, no chemicals, ever.
A native-led wildlife garden is one of the most rewarding kinds of project we work on. Your gardener Josh designs the layout, picks the natives for your light and clay, then plants them. Bespoke and priced to your garden, never a fixed package, because every wildlife plot is different.
The RHS defines a native plant as one that arrived or originated in a particular place without human help. For the British Isles, native plants are species that were here during the last ice age or have arrived unaided since. A native UK plant is a species that the local wildlife has evolved alongside for thousands of years.
Not always, but often. The RHS research is balanced on this: a mix of native and non-native plants supports the broadest range of pollinators, but some UK specialist insects only feed on specific native species. For a wildlife-focused garden we lean native, weight towards natives more heavily in some borders, but never plant only natives.
Yes. Many of the best native plants are small enough for a SE London terrace garden. Foxgloves, hardy geraniums, primroses, wood anemones and field scabious all fit a small border. Even a small native hawthorn can be kept as a manageable shrub in a back garden rather than a tree.
Hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna) is one of the richest single plants for wildlife in the UK flora. The RHS wildlife-friendly garden plants page calls it out specifically as a host of nesting birds. A hawthorn supports hundreds of insect species, feeds birds with autumn berries, and provides nesting cover all year.
No. The RHS guidance is to add natives to the mix, not to replace everything. Existing non-natives that feed pollinators (lavender, salvias, sedums) still earn their place. The win is to add native trees, shrubs and perennials that the local wildlife can use, alongside the non-natives you already love.
Autumn (September to November) is the strongest planting window for native trees, shrubs and most perennials, when the soil is still warm and roots establish before winter. Spring is the second-best option. Bare-root native hedging and trees go in between November and March.
Yes. Native and wildlife planting is part of every wildlife garden design we do. We mix native shrubs and perennials with the non-native pollinator plants the RHS recommends, then keep the garden chemical-free so it actually feeds what it grows. Bespoke and priced to your garden, with no travel charges anywhere in South East London.
Native planting pairs naturally with a wildflower meadow corner, so read our how to create a wildflower meadow guide alongside this. For pollinator-friendly planting that mixes native and non-native, see our best bee-friendly plants UK guide.
Send a few photos on WhatsApp and we will design a native-led wildlife garden for your light, soil and aspect. Bespoke design, no fixed package, no chemicals.